Penang gets most of the credit when people talk about Malaysian food. After spending a full day eating through Kuching, I think that reputation is due for a serious challenge. This is Vincent's hometown, and he brought us to the right places. Coming to Sarawak and letting a local guide your eating decisions is the only correct way to do it.
The city itself is smaller and calmer than KL or Penang, which makes it feel like a very different kind of Malaysia. The Sarawak River runs through the center, the old town has a colonial-era walk through it, and the food is entirely its own thing. This was day one, and it already felt like one of my favorite food trips we have done together.
Morning: The Best Sarawak Laksa in Kuching
Our first stop was Choon Hui Cafe, home of the famous 126 Laksa. Locals consistently pointed us here as the one to try, and Vincent confirmed it without hesitation. When someone who grew up in a city tells you one specific place is the definitive version of a dish that city is famous for, you do not second-guess it.
We ordered the "Special" Sarawak Laksa, which comes with larger prawns and eggs. The soup is perfectly balanced: spicy enough to have a real kick, but not so much that it overwhelms everything else. Rich, layered, and completely unlike any laksa you will find outside of Sarawak. The broth has a complexity to it that took me a few spoonfuls to fully understand. It is built on shrimp paste and coconut milk, but the spice blend gives it a depth that just sits differently than other laksa I have tried. The noodles are thin rice vermicelli, which carries the broth without getting waterlogged.
The "Special" upgrade is worth it. The larger prawns are noticeably better and the egg adds a richness to the last few spoonfuls of broth. If you are only going to do this once, order the Special.
To go with it, we ordered the Teh C Peng Special, a three-layer iced tea that is a classic local pairing. The layers are evaporated milk, tea, and palm sugar syrup. You can stir it together or drink it layered, though either way it is cold and sweet and exactly what you want next to a spicy bowl of noodles.
Controversial take: I think it might be better than Penang Laksa. I am saying this having been to Penang and eaten well there. They are different dishes (Penang Laksa leans sour and fish-forward; Sarawak Laksa leans creamy and prawn-forward), so comparing them is not entirely fair. But if you ask me which one I would sit down and eat again right now, Kuching wins. The conversation belongs here.
Getting to Choon Hui Cafe: It is in the Satok area, not far from the city center. Go early. The 126 Laksa sells out. This is not a tourist warning, it is a practical reality. By mid-morning it is gone, and if you miss it you are waiting until the next day.
Checking Into the Sheraton Kuching
After breakfast we headed to the brand new Sheraton Kuching, which had just opened in February 2025. At check-in, Vincent's Marriott Platinum status got us a complimentary upgrade to a Junior Suite.
High ceilings, a massive soaking tub, a beautiful walk-in shower, and the staff decorated the bed with a towel swan display and flower petals for our honeymoon. The hotel felt genuinely grand in a way that a two-month-old property with no wear on it just does. Everything was fresh and clean in the most literal sense: new carpets, new fixtures, not a scratch on anything. You could smell that a room had never been used before.
The Junior Suite itself was spacious and well-configured. The bathroom alone was a room. The tub was large enough to actually use rather than just look at, which is not always the case with hotel bathtubs. The views from the suite looked out over the city and river, which becomes more interesting to look at as the day goes on and the light changes.
While Vincent napped to recover from the morning heat (Kuching in April is very warm and very humid, and the heat hits you fast when you step outside), I went up to the Executive Lounge on the 22nd floor. The evening service was running when I arrived: finger foods set out pre-portioned, including duck, scallops, and noodles. Beautiful space with views over the city. The lounge was quiet in the late afternoon, which made it a peaceful place to sit and catch up on the day.
For the full hotel breakdown, see the Sheraton Kuching Review.
Dinner: Lepau
For dinner, we met up with some of Vincent's friends at Lepau, a restaurant known for authentic Dayak and Sarawakian cuisine. The ambiance is warm, the lighting is good, and the menu is built around local ingredients that you will not find at most restaurants in the region. Vincent's friends had strong opinions about what we needed to order, which was helpful since the menu covered a lot of ground we were unfamiliar with.
We ordered most of the signature menu between the table.
Midin (jungle fern): A local plant you will not find outside of Sarawak. Stir-fried with a savory anchovy sauce, it has an incredible crunch and a texture unlike anything I have had before. The fern holds its shape even after cooking, which gives it a snap that regular leafy vegetables do not have. Order this. It is the most uniquely Kuching thing on the menu.
Umai (raw fish): Sarawak's answer to ceviche, packed with local spices and small chilies. I did not expect Malaysian food to be this sharp with heat, but the flavor completely worked. The raw fish is thinly sliced and the acid from the citrus does the same curing work that you see in Latin American ceviche, just with a very different spice profile underneath. It was bright and bold and genuinely surprising.
Manicai with egg: A simple, comforting local vegetable dish. Good contrast to the bolder dishes at the table. Sometimes the quieter item on a menu is the one that holds everything together, and that was this dish.
Buttermilk squid: The squid was cooked perfectly. Very soft inside with a rich, milky, savory seasoning. One of the better squid preparations I have had. The buttermilk sauce coats the squid without overwhelming it, which is the balance that dish requires.
Asam soup: Sour and refreshing, built on a strong lemongrass base. Good for cutting through the heavier dishes. The sourness here is clean and bright rather than sharp or acidic in an uncomfortable way.
Lepau costs more than a hawker centre. What you are paying for is the quality of the ingredients, the care in the preparation, and an ambiance that actually makes the meal feel like an occasion. Vincent's local friends, who have lived in Kuching their whole lives, ordered enthusiastically and cleaned their plates. That is the clearest signal a restaurant can give you.
If you are going to Kuching, put Lepau on your list before you arrive. It is the kind of restaurant that makes you understand why people feel proud of regional cuisine rather than just nostalgic about it.
Evening: Kuching Waterfront
After dinner, we walked along the Kuching Waterfront to the Darul Hana Bridge. The waterfront is one of the better stretches of riverside in Malaysia: wide pedestrian path, well-lit, with food stalls and ice cream carts scattered along it. It has the energy of a town that actually uses its waterfront rather than just building alongside it.
The bridge lights up at night and gives you a clear view of the Sarawak State Legislative Assembly Building and the Astana across the river. Both buildings are beautifully lit after dark and the bridge gives you the right angle to see them without obstruction.
Vincent mentioned the bridge did not exist when he used to live here. Getting across the river required taking a small wooden boat operated by locals who would ferry passengers back and forth. Standing on a well-lit pedestrian bridge over the same river, looking at the same skyline from a different angle, was a genuinely nice moment. Kuching has grown and modernized without losing the thing that makes it distinct, which is harder than it sounds.
Practical Info: Day One in Kuching
Best time for 126 Laksa: Arrive at Choon Hui Cafe by 8:00 AM, 8:30 at the latest. The Special Sarawak Laksa runs out before noon.
Getting around: Grab works in Kuching. Taxis are also available near the waterfront. The city is not large and most of the food spots we visited were within a reasonable distance of each other or the Sheraton.
Lepau reservations: Recommended for dinner, especially if you are a larger group. Walk-in availability can be unpredictable, especially on weekends when Vincent's friends told us it fills up.
Waterfront timing: The Darul Hana Bridge is most photogenic after dark when the buildings across the river are lit up. Post-dinner timing works well for this.
Weather: Kuching is hot and humid year-round. Hydrate before you start eating, carry water, and pace yourself if you are doing multiple food stops in one day.
